An Evening of Comparing Wines
From France and Oregon

I had the pleasure of attending a vintner’s dinner where wines (primarily Pinot Noir) from France and Oregon were compared with food offerings from The Dominion Country Club in San Antonio, Texas.

Laurent Drouhin, US Sales Importer for Maison Joseph Drouhin was the presenter for Joseph Drouhin from Beaune France and Domain Drouhin Wines from Oregon.  He was quite entertaining and gave just enough of the history of the wineries to be informative without the long-winded pomp that accompanies some of these events.

The first course:
Pizza Wedge with Roasted Golden Tomatoes, Lobster, fresh Basil Leaves and Buffalo Mozzarella. It was very pleasant and did not compete with the wines.  The other offering was Pine Nut Crusted Panko Shrimp, Roasted Vegetables Napoleon and Fresh Tomato Coulis.  The eggplant in this dish, while tasty, overpowered the characteristics of the wines.

Served with:

Joseph Drouhin 2002 Vero Chardonnay (France)
The winemaker notes have aromas of fruit trees, fresh almonds and honey. I found it a little more acidic with nice fruit flavors. Should not be served with spicy dishes. $20 a bottle was a good value.

Domain Drouhin 2003 Cuvee Arthur (Oregon)
The winemaker is Veronique Drouhin.  This Chardonnay is a cross between the French style of a more crisp and acidic wine and the more traditional American style of more oak nuances.  This wine has pear, apple and slight oak but was quite delicate.  $25 is on the higher end for this wine.  I expect future years to become better as the winemaker chooses which direction to take.

The following courses are a test of the styles of French and American Pinot Noirs. 
The French wines are produced in a typical Burgundian style.  It is usually slightly leaner, crisp and a minerally style. The American style is usually fruit forward and rich with butter, oak and vanillin. The number of guests was about evenly split between the two styles and opinions varied very little between the various offerings.

The second course:
Pan Seared Tuna with Three Herb Salad, Roasted Red Potatoes and warm Dijon Vinaigrette.

Served with:

Joseph Drouhin 2003 Laforet Bourgogne (Pinot Noir) (France)
The winemaker notes were quite profuse with raspberry, red current and black current.  I found it bright with berries and light tannin.  It is a great value at $13 but it is certainly not an opulent wine.

Cloudine 2004 Pinot Noir (Oregon)
I found soft raspberry, licorice or anise.  It has light tannins and can be enjoyed in the immediate future.  A typical American Pinot Noir at $15.

The third course:
Medallions of Kobe Beef with Forest Mushroom Risotto and Drambuie Glaze accompanied by Asparagus Bundles. 
If you are going to serve Kobe Beef, make sure you serve a quality cut.  For the second time within a month I have had Kobe Beef that had the texture and flavor of a cheap sirloin cut.

Served with:

Domaine Drouhin 2002 Pinot Noir
I had the same tasting notes as the Winery.  Aromas of raspberry, mineral and spice with a long finish.  I’ll pass based on the $35 price.

Joseph Drouhin 2002 Vero Pinot Noir
A supple texture with light fruit and no real ‘guts’.  $22

The fourth course:
Rosemary Garlic Colorado Lamb Chop on Dijon Demi-Glace with Duchease Potatoes, Baby Zucchini and Sunburst Squash.

Served with:

Domaine Drouhin 2001 Pinot Noir Laurene
A spirited wine with black cherry, raspberry and ample spice.  What an American Pinot should be.  Priced at $50 which in my mind is a little much.

The fifth course:
Chocolate and Hazelnut Pate with Dark Chocolate Sauce.  In my opinion a cheese plate would have been more in keeping with a finale for this Pinot Noir.  Some wines do not need chocolate to be shown at their best.  Simplicity is sometimes the best course.

Joseph Drouhin 2003 Gevrey Chambertin
Fruit driven with black cherries and smooth tannins.  Hints of black current and full fruit.  $45 and a better value than some.

A Quick Note: I am never compensated for my opinions, good or bad, for any review that I do.

Chef Bill Waring is a Personal Chef in San Antonio, Texas and is affiliated with Personal Chefs Network.  His website at www.thyme-n-wine.com