Organic Wine Tasting Results

In my last column I wrote generically about organic wines and wine made from organically grown grapes.  Here is a link to the column.

During our National Convention of The Personal Chefs Network®, I conducted a wine tasting with wines provided to us from The Organic Wine Company in California and Brown-Forman. Their generosity is appreciated with information and research assistance on organic wines.

To review: Organic Wine is made from grapes grown organically in addition to having NO added sulfites during processing. The organic wine company supplied wines to taste and evaluate that fit this category. Going into this tasting I was a bit concerned about the organic wine since it has a reputation of not having very much structure.  I was pleased with the results of the tasting in that they had great depth and flavor without the usual tannins associated with some of the varietals we tasted. I will, however, say that I believe we tasted some wines that had reached their prime in aging and development.

The following comments are the result of tasting Burgundian style wine from France and ‘new world’ style California.

The Burgundian style is stereotypically elegant, restrained but not plain, and well suited to a range of cuisine.  This style is also described as finesse and elegant.

This is quite apart from the typical New World style (Australia, California, South America) that leans more to fruit forward, higher alcohol, and obvious oak.  New world is also described as dense, powerful with fruit and alcohol.

2003 Marsanne, Domaine de Clairac, VEGAN, and Certified Organic Grapes.
They describe it: “A remarkable and unusual white wine. Its aromas will intrigue you.”

“A delicious, non-acidic white wine with great flavor intensity Youthful and vigorous”

Alcohol content 13% by volume, Priced at $17.00.

When we tasted it we found a straw-color with a pleasant nose of violets. We tasted pleasant mineral-flinty characteristics with lemon-grass. As it warmed up it became a little spicier which gave it a new dimension. It paired well with brie and cranberries and with a jicama/papaya salad.

2001 Chateau Bousquette, Made from Certified Organic Grapes, Contains Sulfites. They describe it as “well balanced and rounded on the peppery side!”.

Alcohol content 13% by volume, $19.00.

We found a huge taste with up-front dried fruit and substantial pepper with a deep red color.  The tannins were smooth and very enjoyable.  This is made from ‘organically grown grapes and has held its character very well.
A very good value.

2004 Muscadet Chateau de a Fessardière, Made from Certified Organic Grapes and Contains No Sulfites. Suitable for Vegan Diets. They describe it with an acidic balance to satisfy sensitive stomachs.

I am not a fan of some acidic whites and prefer more of the ‘new world’ style.  Having said that, I found this wine to be crisp and clean without some of the heavy citrus flavors.  I consider this wine a ‘real keeper’ for those times I want a clean refreshing white wine.

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Mas de Janiny, Vin de Pays d’Oc, Made from Certified Organic Grapes, Unfined, Unfiltered, VEGAN. They say “powerful nose and a deep and explosive mouth make you pause for appreciation”.

Alcohol 13% by volume, $30.00

We found a full beginning with lingering soft tannins.  A rich ruby color with substantial ‘legs’.  In the beginning we tasted cherry, smoky and a full nose.  As it opened up we found a little anise and charred wood.  A finish with a slight clove flavor. We had this with a garlicky butter sauce with escargot and crusty bread.  We liked it a lot.

We had another Chardonnay that is no longer available due to its popularity.

To summarize: The organic wines and the wine made from organically grown grapes surprised and pleased me. Having heard the stories about Organic Wines being short-lived must be over reported.  The wines we tasted were all of good character and typical varietal flavors.  I look forward to experimenting with more Organic Wines of older vintages to determine for myself the aging potential of other Organic Wines.

I applaud these producers for boldly publicizing their Organic and Wine Made from Organic grape Products.  Many wineries are choosing to limit their exposure to an outdated myth that Organic Wines are inferior to more traditional production methods.

Review of some wines made from organically grown grapes (American Produced):

The Bonterra wines are made from Organically Grown Grapes.  Although they do not qualify as Organic Wines, the winemaker has taken the farming practices of the organic movement and produced exceptional wine for the price.  From tasting older vintages, I have found this capable of longer aging.

2004 Bonterra Roussanne Mendocino County, California
This is a most interesting wine that I never had the opportunity to experience.
The Roussanne grape has a bit of controversy attached to it.  Originally it came from France in the Rhône and Isere Valleys with predominance in Rhone.  It has been traditionally a blending grape and is one of the four white varietals permitted in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

In the 1980’s this was imported to the U.S. from the Rhône valley.  SNA tests have since tied this grape to Viognier.  This discovery has led to lawsuits and confusion as to its beginnings and actual designation.  The Roussanne has inconsistent yields, is susceptible to powdery mildew and rot.  Typically the Roussanne will add the ability of a white wine to age for longer periods of time, sometimes up to 10 years.

The Bonterra Roussanne It is fermented in both stainless steel and barrels.  It was NOT produced with malolactic fermentation and was left in barrels for a very short period of time.  By the taste, crisp pear and a little floral with peach and a gravely finish, (a good thing).

OK, what is malolactic fermentation: Often referred to as “malo” or “ML,” this is a secondary fermentation that often happens spontaneously, but is sometimes induced by a yeast culture. Malic acid is one of the two main acids in wine (the other is tartaric) and is unaffected by the primary fermentation process. Malic acid tends to be harsh, and malolactic fermentation turns Malic acid into softer Lactic acid. ML fermentation softens wines and can provide added complexity.

Roussanne’s main asset is its distinctive aroma, along with an acidity which helps it to age better than its partner Marsanne. Roussanne tends to ripen late and can benefit from oak ageing.

By the numbers:
Roussanne 95%
Viognier 5%

Alcohol 13.70% by volume
pH 3.24% (a little more acidic than some)

Priced at about $20.00.

I am not a fan of acidic wines such as Sauvignon Bland with the citrus and sharp characteristics.  Having said that, I found this to be well balanced between the Burgundian and new world styles.  I have purchased this several times when I wanted a crisp wine without overly acidic characteristics.

2004 Bonterra Chardonnay Mendocino County, California
This Chardonnay is typically of the Burgundian style/ with less oak aging and a deliberate attempt to show the freshness of great fruit from organic vineyards in Mendocino County.  Mendocino has become more popular for the crispness of Burgundian style.  The ‘new world’ styled wines would have more oak, butter and a little more softness.

It has a solid acidic structure without having an overbearing amount of pineapple and tart apple.  All Chardonnays are not created equal.  This wine has a softer citrus taste with just a proper balance of creaminess and vanilla.

By the numbers:
Chardonnay 100%

Alcohol 13.7% by volume
pH 3.28

Priced at about $14.

2003 Bonterra Merlot Mendocino County
A very typical Merlot with just the correct amount of tannins.  This wine, made from Organically Grown Grapes demonstrates the winemaker’s ability to take fruit grown with sustainable farming practices and combine it with current production methods to give me a rich but subtle experience.

Unlike some winemakers this is holding to the Merlot experience of richness with flavors of black cherry and a hint of vanilla from the French Oak barrels.

Aged 19 months in predominately French barrels which have a medium/medium-plus toast.  The amount of ‘toast’ refers to the amount of charring that takes place when the barrels are manufactured and placed over fires to char the inside of the barrel.  Oak barrels are used more than once for many wine aging.  This is a good balance of new and old barrels.  The older barrels give a softness whereby the new barrels impart more of the vanilla nuances.

This merlot is an excellent value for those who want a typical merlot at an affordable price.

By the numbers:
Merlot 91%
Cabernet Sauvignon 9%

Alcohol 14.1% by volume
pH 3.68

Priced at $16

2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Mendocino County
This Cabernet shows the Old World characteristics with finesse and elegance.  The American Oak barrels give just the right amount of richness to the finesse of the Burgundian style wine.

Cabernet Sauvignon can come in many packages and flavors.  Some are rich and heavy with tannins and some are elegant while young with more supple flavors.  This Cabernet is the younger and supple variety.  The Burgundian roots are finished with the fruit forward style of the New World.  Both characteristics are presented well with this wine.  To make this even better, the price can make this an ‘everyday value’.  This has rich fruit forward flavors of creamy vanilla with cherry and raspberry.

While I would not match this with a heavy steak with gorgonzola cheese, I would recommend it with a lighter combination of veal or spiced pork.

By the numbers:
Cabernet Sauvignon 91%
Syrah 9%

Alcohol 13.9%
pH 3.58

Excellent Price at $16.00.

About the Author:

Chef Bill Waring is a Personal Chef in San Antonio, TX. He is a member of The Personal Chefs Network and Chef of The Month (www.personalchefsnetwork.com). His website is www.thyme-n-wine.com.