Organic Wines
As I began research on organic wines I thought this might be a topic where the rules were established and the common grounds were clear. As I did more research, I found it can become confusing with the regulations that had been adopted and then revised over the past few years. Like other Government agencies regulations are published for comment and often not taken out of print when amended or rewritten. This is the case with some Organic guidelines. Careful research must be done to get the newest regulations and guidelines.
There are the large producers who want national guidelines and local or state level producers/consumers who want their own guidelines without the interference of the Federal level beaurocrats. Somewhere in between the sometimes muddled waters there must be a good balance. I decided to dwell on the popular belief that organics must be good for everyone although everyone does not have to be an ‘organic’ farmer to produce good wine. It is interesting that wine that is 99.99% organic cannot be labeled “Organic” if it has added sulfites or sulfites in excess of 100ppm of SO2 in the finished product.
A few common terms are in order before we delve into some of the concepts:
Organic wine is made from grapes that have been grown in accordance with generally accepted practices and contain no added sulfites. It must be noted some sulfites occur naturally in all wines. Some wines have very low levels and do not have to be labeled as containing sulfites. Once the USDA adopted National Organic Standards, the word "organic" has become a legal definition.
Being organic is clearly defined by the National Organic Standards (NOP). It requires a 3 year transition to organic production before final certification, and cannot be used on a label unless the producer has been certified. The European Union does not recognize the term Organic Wine.
Wine made with organically grown grapes will have grapes as described above but may have some sulfites added in the production of the wine.
Sustainable farming practices are common with organic growers and are becoming more popular even with producers that are not concentrating on growing ‘organic’ grapes. The sustainable practices often involve adding organic matter to the soil from the normal operation of the winery. Stems, shells and other byproducts are broadcast back onto the vineyard soil to reduce the amount of irrigation and to a certain degree to help in weed control and soil erosion.
Biodynamic® farming is the oldest comprehensive system of organic agriculture started in 1924 by German philosopher Rudolph Steiner. Biodynamic® farms strive to be a self-sustaining organism within the surrounding ecosystem. The name comes from the Greek word "bio", which means life-energy. The worldwide Demeter organization certifies Biodynamic® farms. Demeter standards are generally stricter than organic standards and emphasize farm animals, soil and plant sprays and compost preparations which enhance and regulate plant growth and fertility.
Biodynamic farming often introduces the grazing of cows, sheep and chickens throughout the vineyard rows and they encourage a diversity of plants to grow in buffer zones around their vineyard plots.
Sulfites is an additive used by winemakers to control the quality of their product. Some winemakers add small amounts of sulfites as a preservative in the wine. It is hotly debated among some winemakers as to the true value of added sulfites.
Sulfites is a naturally occurring compound that nature uses to prevent microbial growth. It is found in many plants including garlic and onions.
Some people have allergies to sulfites and avoid foods and drinks that contain added sulfites. There are numerous articles about sulfites and many claim that there is no proof as to sulfites causing headaches. These same people admit to some red wine drinkers getting headaches, but cannot prove it is due to this compound. Until the beginning of 2006, The United States was the only country that requiring a warning about wine containing sulfites. The European Union has required the addition of the sulfites notice.
There are wineries that have developed product that is less prone to spoilage without the adding sulfites beyond the amount occurring naturally.
Whether the grapes are grown organically or not, wineries are producing better wine through the use of sound viticulture practices. All producers are feverously striving for a better product.
Each year more and more producers are using more natural methods in controlling insects and fungi. Ladybugs have been used for many years in the vegetable farming community. In fact Lolonis Winery in Walnut Creek, CA releases hundreds of thousands of ladybugs into their vineyards each June. They are finding their way into more vineyards as are good fungi. (For clarification we will refer to fungi as plural for fungus although ‘funguses’ is also proper). Fungi, which lack chlorophyll, include yeasts, molds, and mushrooms. There are ‘good fungi’ that can be used to counteract the bad fungi that reside in many vineyards.
Beneficial nematodes are sometimes used to attack nematodes that can reduce the quality or yield in the vineyards.
The Lolonis Winery has used organic principals in their operation since the 1920’s. That is the method that was used in Greece where the Lolonis family originated.
The phrase ‘Organic Wine’ or ‘Made with Organically Grown Grapes’ has been used very sparingly in the U.S. These wines have been perceived as more expensive, with less character and not as good as the wines made in a more traditional way. There is a lot of mystique about making and enjoying wine and wine snobs are thought have enough to worry about without the organic craze.
The French have called it ‘terroir’. The organic farmer calls it ‘from the earth or the soil’. All farming starts with the soil and it’s up to the grower to make the best of it.
According to the main producers of organic wine, it is no more difficult to produce wine typical to the varietal as with any other production method. It’s up to the farmer and the winemaker to work together to produce the best product possible.
Even the best of the organic wineries have resisted in labeling their product as ‘organic’ or made with organically grown grapes. There is still the stigma that the best of the best have not been able to overcome or have chosen not to push the envelope on Organic wine. Organic is becoming less ‘geeky’. Sustainable farming is making more sense, especially when the quality of the product improves. The organic growing process is going through a maturation process that will not evolve overnight.
To take this to an extreme, the Stellar Winery from South Africa has a main focus on producing sulfite Free wines with zero parts per million. Their competition generally produces wines under 100 parts per million. In South Africa that is the limit on sulfites in order that it be labeled ‘organic’, as set by the National Organic Party, (the equivalent of U.S.D.A.).
In the U.S., the Organic Trade Association’s 2004 Manufacturer Survey showed U.S. overall sales of Organic wines totaled $48 Million in 3003. That includes both “Organic’ and ‘wine made from organically grown grapes. There are projections that this increase was up by 20% from the previous year. Because the taste and quality of organic wines (or wines made from organically grown grapes) have improved substantially in the last five years, more vintners are willing to advertise their organic products as organic. As a result, more and more consumers are discovering and enjoying organically produced wines.
To add to the confusion, each geographical region may adopt its own designation or criteria for their control of organic definition. The guidelines must fit into the U.S.D.A. standards. While this keeps control local, it also leads to confusion as to there being a national standard. Many large producers like the national standard while smaller wineries may prefer local control of standards.
Katrina Frey comments that “the U.S. does have very clear organic guidelines that are federally regulated. It’s true that there have been attempts to weaken those guidelines, but so far consumer and organic farmer input and protest has managed to uphold the strict standards.”
As I did more research I had a couple of thoughts about the Organic movement. I envisioned just the small boutique wineries produced Organic wines. I came to realize that some volume wines are Organic and the quality can be maintained at a high level. Sokol Blosser produces Evolution 9 at a very reasonable price. I thought that because of the extra attention that Organic growing requires, the volume wines would be more expensive or could not be profitable.
My conclusion is that there can be quality wines in the organic production methods. Although there are wines that are Organic Wines, most of the wines produced with some organic labeling may be ‘wine made with organically grown grapes’. This is not to say it is not a great wine, but it may have added sulfites.
A few thoughts about organic wine and dietary restrictions:
There are those who have a devotion to organic foods as well as Organic wines. There are some who go beyond the organics and on to a vegetarian or vegan lifestyle. There are wines, albeit Organic, that do not fit the vegetarian or vegan diet.
Some wines are fined or filtered using animal products to clarify the wine and make it smoother. Some of the ingredients included in wine making are isinglass (a very pure form of gelatin from sturgeon fish bladders), gelatin (extract from boiled cow's or pig's hooves and sinews), egg whites (or albumin) and caseins (a protein from milk). While vegetarians may accept the egg products, vegan diets will accept none of these ingredients in the purifying of the wine. Caution should be exercised in choosing wines by these groups. All organic wines may not fit the diets restrictions of some consumers.
Wineries that produce all or some of their wine from Organic methods or wine made from organically grown grapes:
Sokol Blosser Winery
(800)582-6668
Willamette Valley – Dundee Hills
www.sokolblosser.com
Sokol Blosser received USDA Organic Certification in September 2005 from Oregon Tilth. I have visited this beautiful winery and have tasted excellent product. It is off the beaten path but well worth the visit. Besides the popular Sokol Blosser wines, they produce Evolution 9, a very popularly priced white wine. Susan has been very helpful in helping me with the facts and presenting the Organic story. Sokol Blosser wines do not contain ingredients that would outside a Vegan diet.
Robert Sinskey Vineyards
(800)869-2030
Napa Valley, CA
www.robertsinskey.com
Total Organic and certified by the California Certified Organic Farmers. It is one of the largest organic vineyard operations in Napa Valley.
I have also visited this winery. Absolutely wonderful people with outstanding product.
Four Chimneys Organic Winery
www.fourchimneysorganicwines.com
Northeast Organic Farmers' Association of New York (NOFA)
Himrod, NY 14842
Phone: (607) 243-7502
There are even semi-sweet wines that are great as an apéritif. Eye of The Bee.
Frey Vineyards
www.freywine.com
Redwood Valley, CA 95470
Phone: 1.800.760.3739
Frey uses Biodynamic® farming methods including the introduction of certain farm animals in the vineyards.
All Frey Estate Bottled Wines, made from grapes grown Biodynamically®, are certified by the Demeter Association recognized Biodynamic® certification agency located in Junction City, Oregon.
The rest of their wines are USDA certified organic by CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers) based in Santa Cruz, California. The CCOF and DEMETER seals are their guarantee of a pure, naturally grown wine, good for grape and globe alike.
Bonterra Ranch
www.bonterra.com
Russian River
Mendocino, County, CA
From the Bonterra Ranch website:
Bonterra Vineyards, who have been at the forefront of Organic Viticulture and wines made from organically grown grapes over the past decade, have now achieved certification from the UK’s Soil Association.
Bonterra is one of the first wineries in the world to be granted this certification and is the first major wine brand to carry the Soil Association logo on its labels.
Simon Legge, European Marketing Director for Bonterra, said:
“We believe organic accreditation is a vital cornerstone to building consumer confidence in any organic category, not least wine, and we regard the Soil Association as the ‘Gold Standard’ of such credible organic certifiers. The Soil Association standards are more demanding than general EU organic standards, but Robert Blue, the Bonterra Winemaker, has worked incredibly hard to ensure that his wines meet their requirements. We are delighted at this new development and look forward to playing a leading role in the organically grown wine sector still further in the years to come.”
“The work being done by Bonterra to spread the word about the principles and practices that lie behind their range of organic wines is an important contribution to the work of the organic movement as a whole,” commented Patrick Holden, Director of the Soil Association.
James Caudill of Brown-Forman Wines added: Bonterra is certified by CCOF and by Demeter, along with the Soil Association.
Just FYI to show the growing interest in organics, Bonterra sales have increased by nearly 40% over the past two vintages, particularly with restaurants where chefs who are doing things with sustainable seafood, salmon safe, the Chef's Collaborative etc. find it a natural thing to turn to organic wines.
The following is a Certified Organic Winery.
Jeriko Vineyards LLC
www.jerikoestate.com
Hopland, CA
(707)744-1140
Jeriko Estates: “follows the strictest guidelines and his wines are certified organic by the USDA & CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers). They also maintain the practices of biodynamic farming and the entire vineyard should be certified within 2006.
I enjoyed a very good discussion with Danny Fetzer of Jeriko. They are the only American winery producing a Sparkling Wine in the US. Most wineries have the distinction of being a winery “Wine made with organically grown grapes. Many wineries want to add sulfites at the winery as to preserve the quality of the grape and to reduce the possibility of having ‘bad’ wine. Sulfites is a preservative and is used sparingly, but with good intensions.”
Tony Norskog
Winemaker
http://www.ourdailyred.com/
Nevada City, CA 95959
Notes from Tony Norskog:
“All my red wines are 'organic' by the National organic program definition. This requires certified organic grapes, certified organic facility, no sulfites added and a total of under 10 parts per million present naturally. My Viognier under the Orleans Hill brand is 'Made from organic grapes". The words Made from have become the feds. touchstone words for synthetics added. I use SO2 in white wines (about 5% of my total production) as the whites without sulfites just don't hold up very well.”
“I make about 50,000 cases of red per year without any Sulfites added and most get a "none detectable" analysis from a fed. certified lab so I can say "sulfite free" on most of the reds.
We consider organic grape growing to be just responsible agriculture (and it works great), but the sulfites consumption is a 'personal choice' issue, do you want more or less preservatives in your diet?”
In further conversations with Tony, he adds, “One thing I've noticed on the street is people are starting to respond to the USDA logo on 'organic wines'. This is a quick way for the consumer who is interested in no added sulfites to identify those wines. I find it interesting as the USDA sticker on meat is virtually un-noticed.
Tony also adds that he is quite proud of his truly “organic wine” and gets a little peeved at the fact that some wines may be taken as ‘truly organic’ when they are ‘made with organic grapes’.
All of Tony’s wines are Vegan ok'd.
The Organic Wine Company
http://www.theorganicwinecompany.com/
Véronique Raskin, Founder and Michel Ginoulhac, MD
Toll Free: 1-888-ECOWINE (326-9463)
My thanks to Véronique and Michel for their insight and assistance in editing this article for factual content. I look forward to tasting some of their product over the next few weeks and writing a follow-up article on my tasting their Organic wine and other wines made with organic grapes.
Editors note:
As I stated early on, there is confusion about the terminology in organics and I can sympathize with his point of view. Labeling and terminology may change as the organic movement takes on more importance as consumers demand more ‘natural’ products.
Additional sources listed below:
Barbara Haumann
Senior Writer/Editor, Organic Trade Association P.O. Box 547, Greenfield, MA 01302 Street address: 60 Wells St., Greenfield, MA 01301
www.theorganicreport.org
California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF)
http://www.ccof.org/contact.php
I spent considerable time on the phone with their representative about the organic movement. It is MY perception that the consumer is not well educated on the various terms and options on organics in general and organic wines in specific terms. The term “organic” is allowed on wine that is produced from ‘organically grown grapes’ as well as Organic Wine. Unless you are knowledgeable, you may not know that sulfites are added and the word organic is used on the label.
http://www.ams.usda.gov/nop/indexIE.htm
www.stellarorganics.com
www.organicconsumers.org/organic/organic
For more information on vegetarian or vegan wines:
http://vegans.frommars.org/wine/faq.php#1.1
U.S.D.A. Guidelines for “Organic” commodities:
About the Author:
Chef Bill Waring is a Personal Chef in San Antonio, TX. He is a member of The Personal Chefs Network and Chef of The Month (www.personalchefsnetwork.com).
His website is www.thyme-n-wine.com. |
